Feature - Culture

October 18, 2009
568 Words

Beneath the radiance

Seerwan Ali Jaffer, hailing from Nineveh in Iraq, trades in precious stones. At his stall in the Heritage Village, Jaffer smiles broadly as we ask him question after question about his trade. The pride he has in his profession could not be anymore evident. “ I have all kinds of stone and glass jewelry” he says, I have prayer beads made of real amber , worry beads, and gemstones set to bracelets, earrings, necklaces and rings. ” He says in a well rehearsed sing song voice.

Jaffer in his shop

Photo credits: Blassy Boben

The most common item in Jaffer’s shop are Islamic prayer beads. These prayer beads are known as Masbaha or Tasbeh. Pious use a string of ninety-nine (or one hundred) beads called the subha or tasbih, on which they recite the names of Allah. It is divided into three equal parts either by a bead or special shape or size, or by a tassel of gold or silk thread. Equally as popular are the worry beads, these are used to supposedly relieve stress and tensions of the day. Jaffer’s shop is a tourist favorite, as he narrates his tale of the lost art of handmade jewelry to anyone who will ask.

The colourful rosaries on display

Photo: Blassy Boben

“There are different types of rosaries -33, 45, 66 and 99 beads”, he says . “The bead sizes are: Ø 6 - 20 mm round beads, 6x8 mm to 15x20 mm”, he rambles on, his eyes focused on a distant past in Iraq where his family painstakingly fashioned these beads. “Rosaries are made from fragrant wood, amber, mother-of-pearl, gold and silver”. He runs the silken beads through his fingers, sniffing at them for the fragrance the wood gives off.

Jaffer talks about his precious goods

Photo: Blassy Boben

Forced to leave Iraq after the Gulf War, Jaffer came to the UAE, in search of work. He speaks of a time where he was afraid of losing everything he painstakingly rebuilt here in foreign land. When I was a child, I remember my entire house participating in activities to shape and string the beads. It used to be a family affair” he explains, “Today, my sons have businesses of their own. Nobody wants handmade jewelry anymore, Everyone wants fancy machine cut stones. Ours is a dying trade”. He says sadly. “I no longer make jewellery, he says, I am too old for that. I trade in the items my brother in laws send me from Iraq”. Jewellery making is a long and tedious process, Jaffer elaborates on the stages of work he used to perform in his youth to make a simple pendant. “Once we got our hands on the stones, we’re busy with the cutting, shaping, slicing and the polishing of the stone, it takes a long time”. “The end product is almost always unsatisfactory”, he says. Jaffer is a perfectionist, and explains that he can always spot flaws in his finished products, Since he keeps improving upon them he takes even longer to complete them than the rest of his people. “Today the same thing can be completed very fast using machines, and the end piece is flawless.”

The glittering treasure

Photo: Blassy Boben

His ears perk up at the call for prayer, as he begins to lovingly repack the stones he brought out to show us. Each of his items are one of a kind, individually handcrafted to the highest standard. His interesting designs use gemstones, art glass, shell, coral, amber, leather, hemp, copper and silver; Jaffer’s jewellery is truly unique and unconventional. His jewellery is surprisingly contemporary, branded with a timeless wearability.

The last of a dying breed
Photo: Blassy Boben